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Aug23

Finale in Paradise

by Kev on August 23rd, 2011 at 7:43 pm
Posted In: travel
Palolem, Goa

Palolem, Goa

Arriving in Goa and hastily rearranging the train back to Mumbai meant that our holiday effectively ended in Goa, rather than the planned day in Mumbai. It also meant that we had an extra day in Goa to put to good use.

Even if the highly-acclaimed author William Dalrymple states that the true definition of Paradise is a walled garden I think most people would rate a palm-fringed beach a little higher up the list.

So for our final day of a fantastic month long trip we decided to spend it in Paradise, at a beach named Palolem, which is right at the southern tip of Goa. When I visited Goa fourteen years ago this beach was locally named Paradise Beach and whilst they seemed to have dropped that name now the word paradise does spring to mind as soon as you set foot on the sand.

Jane, Emilia and Amy on the fairly deserted beach
Jane, Emilia and Amy on the fairly deserted beach

Even the cows come here for their holidays
Even the cows come here for their holidays

I expected to find big changes in Palolem since I was last here in April 1996 but the beach itself had changed very little, with the exception of seemingly more hawkers. As it’s monsoon there were none of the cocu-huts – simple huts made out of coconut palm leaves – as they were just starting to be built in preparation for the coming tourist season. There were no shacks on the beach either as these are taken down in April and put back up in September or October after the rains have passed. The beach however was still gorgeous.

Without surprise Jane still had some more shopping to do and there wasn’t a shortage of people trying to sell her lots of stuff. Each hawker asked us to look at their shop by which they meant the jewellery stuffed into a bag. Once Jane had agreed to look at their ‘shop’ they laid a sheet on the sand and thoughtly arranged their jewellery for Jane to view. Unfortunately Jane hd agree to view the collections of more than one hawker at the same time, something quite unadvisable as it got a little heated – between the hawkers – at points.

Buying from the 'shops' on the beach
Buying from the ‘shops’ on the beach

In Hampi Jane missed out of having some henna done, opting instead for a relaxing massage, and once the hawkers noticed she didn’t have henna, whereas the girls did, it was no surprise that this was also something they offered, albeit at an inflated price to Hampi. Jane decided to get a simple design done as it was her last chance to do so. Suprisingly it was the first time she’d ever had henna painting done in any of her five visits to India.

Jane's simple henna painting
Jane’s simple henna painting

Finding a palm tree that wouldn’t look out of place in anyone’s imagination of a tropical beach we couldn’t pass it without taking a photo or two. Here’s one of Amy:

Amy on Palolem Beach
Amy on Palolem Beach

And finally – yes here they are, the words you’ve been waiting for – the holiday is over. This is the final post of the blog that I’ll do whilst we travel as we’re currently on a train to Mumbai and we fly home tomorrow. I’ll do a few reflective posts later on, especially about how we got on with the travel, the trains, the diabetes management, but for now that’s it.

Ironically we’ve faced no real problems here in India, whilst at home our fridge/freezer blew up and two freezers of food and all of Amy’s insulin bit the dust. Thanks to Dad, Bev, Paul and the team at Winchester Hospital for helping sort all this out, especially the insulin.

Thanks to each and everyone of my friends in India, new and old, who’ve helped make this trip as excellent as I always hoped it would be. It’s been a pleasure meeting you, eating and drinking with you, sharing stories and jokes and meeting your families. Hopefully it won’t be too long before we meet again.

Finally, thank you for reading the posts, I really hoped you’ve enjoyed reading the posts, viewing the photos and watching the videos as much as I’ve enjoyed documenting our trip.

Kev.

Me in Paradise
Me in Paradise

└ Tags: beach, goa
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Aug22

Skylark Hotel, Colva, Goa

by Kev on August 22nd, 2011 at 6:03 am
Posted In: hotels, travel
Skylark Hotel, Colva, Goa

Skylark Hotel, Colva, Goa - that's our room bottom-left

After rejecting the awful Silver Sands hotel after just a couple of seconds I did the rounds of some other hotels that I’d read about in the various guides. First it was off to Soul Vacation, an upmarket place where they only had one room big enough, a suite at Rs4000 a night, that’s £58 and a little over my budget. It had a pool but one the size of a postage stamp.

Moving on to Graciano Cottages where a room for all four of us was just Rs1500, that’s £21 and a good deal, but it was run down, dusty, smelly and had no pool.

Almost next door was the Skylark Hotel, a family-run hotel owned by an English lady and her husband, although they’re off travelling with their family at the moment. Joseph the manager showed me around the small hotel and opened the door to the clean, large room with a four poster bed. I was sold. We did a deal for the room at Rs2700 including all extra beds and taxes but I had another hotel to look at first.

The Colmar Hotel looked like it could be the right one as it’s right next to the beach, has a pool and has cottages in the grounds. When I got there it appeared that it was busy with workmen and very noisy Indian holidaymakers, hardly the peaceful retreat I was looking for so I didn’t even go in.

So the Skylark it was.

Arriving at the hotel I did the deal with Joseph, the day manager, for two nights only and he showed us to our room, room number 1. We were the only ones here so the pool was ours, just ours. 🙂 Jane and the kids were delighted with my choice and we unpacked before going for a swim.

It didn’t taken long for Jane and I to start discussing altering our plans to stay in Goa as long as possible and cut out Mumbai, but re-arranging it so we can still get to Mumbai should our 13 hour train get cancelled.

Off to a nearby cybercafe and I managed to get a train one-day later, leaving tomorrow on the 23rd at 08:30, arriving 15 hours before our plane departs, which gives us 28 hours to get to Mumbai if the train gets cancelled due to the monsoon, although I hear it’s unlikely this late in August. So we’re staying for three nights and effectively our holiday ends here. Today.

To anyone looking for a hotel in Colva I don’t think you can go far wrong with the lovely Skylark Hotel.

Here’s some photos of the hotel, pool and grounds:

Skylark entrance
The entrance (red building) to the Skylark Hotel

The pool
The pool and the non-AC block

The pool at night time
The pool at night time

└ Tags: colva, goa, hotels
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Aug22

Kentuckee Fried Vindaloo

by Kev on August 22nd, 2011 at 5:59 am
Posted In: food, travel
Pork Vindaloo

Pork Vindaloo

Vindaloo orginates from Goa and so there’s was no way I was going to miss trying it whilst here. When last in Goa I bottled it, opting for the lesser spicy dishes as I’d not even had Vindaloo in England, but now I can handle hotter dishes.

I’d almost ordered it at the Leda restaurant on Saturday night but they only did Chicken Vindaloo and I’d read – somewhere I’m sure – that Pork Vindaloo is the authentic one. It seemed a little odd eating Pork in India and I can’t recall ever having a Pork curry anywhere before.

After checking out a few restaurants yesterday afternoon I opted to go to the restaurant named Kentuckee, a place so close to the beach that it’s almost a beach shack, but it’s not, it’s a fixed building trying to look like a beach shack. It’s certainly the most popular place here though so the food is obviously good, they’ve got live music and they’ve got some cracking prawn and fish dishes on the menu. Feeling extravagant I ordered a plate of Calamari for a starter for Jane and I; it was expensive at Rs140, that’s £2!

When the mains turned up I was excited to try the Vindaloo but I’ll admit to being a little nervous as I popped the first bits into my mouth, how hot would it be? There was certainly some spice there but nothing like its English prepare-for-your-throat-to-be-ripped-out-by-hot-chilli-powder cousin. The more I ate the spicier it became but it was more of a tingling sensation that stayed with me for quite a while after I’d finished. The pork was well cooked, the sauce/gravy tasty, I may have to order this again.

└ Tags: colva, food, goa
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Aug22

The Going’s Good In Goa

by Kev on August 22nd, 2011 at 5:57 am
Posted In: travel
Colva, Goa

Colva, Goa

Goa was nothing other than a convenient stopping place between Hampi and Mumbai and I wasn’t really looking forward to coming here, that’s why we were only due to stay for 2 nights which gave us only one full day.

As we were due to only stay for such a short time we decided to pick the closest beach to Margao where our trains arrive to and later depart from. The beach of choice was Colva, a place hardly even mentioned in our Rough Guide as apparently it’s awful.

One reason for choosing Colva was that Jane stayed here a little over 22 years ago, when she was a little over 22 years old. She stayed for almost two weeks at the Hotel Silver Sands so that’s where we headed for, although to be honest I don’t think I ever thought we’d actually stay there as the reviews of it are awful. And it is. Truly awful.

Arriving at the Silver Sands we were shown the sea-facing room and it was dreadful, dusty, smelly, run-down and they still expected to get Rs3000 plus Rs500 for each extra bed, so Rs4000 (£57) plus tax per night. We walked straight out of the hotel without even saying “no thanks” to the receptionist. Leaving the others enjoying a well-earned Subway – for the first time in India this trip – I did the rounds of some hotels and finally made my choice, a lovely room at the Skylark Hotel, with a lovely pool for a good price.

So, the worst beach area in Goa, at the worst possible time of the year, it really shouldn’t have much going for it. So why are we enjoying it so much? I guess after three weeks of travelling India we’re used to the dust, so this place appears clean and fresh; we’re used to cows; we’re used to dogs; we’re used to lots of litter everywhere so again this place appears clean.

Inadvertantly the Rough Guide’s slating of Colva has helped us – there’s hardly any westerners here and that’s fine by us. Given that it’s off season and the prices are low it’s enabled us to find a very clean, small, family-run hotel. We’re in heaven.

On Saturday night we ate next door at the Leda restaurant, a fairly happening place linked to the Skylark, which had live music with a very pretty singer, who clearly was singing just to me. I didn’t even need to look at the menu as I knew they’d serve the dish I’d been waiting to have again since the last time I was in Goa, 14 years ago: Chicken Xacuti. I wasn’t disappointed although it cost three times more than most other meals I’ve had, it was Rs270 rupees, that’s just under £4 but a high price considering most dishes I’ve had in India have been about Rs90, or £1.30.

Chicken Xacuti
Chicken Xacuti

On Sunday morning we went for a walk to Jane’s breakfast haunt from 22 years ago, the Lucky Star Restaurant just behind the beach and a little north from where we’re staying. It was undergoing renovations and was closed, so we ate next door at Longuinos, which was almost closed and undergoing renovations too, but at least it was open for breakfast, even if it was served in room 102 of the hotel. I felt lucky as I’d almost booked this place online without seeing it in the flesh, just going on the web site pictures; I’m glad I didn’t.

The walk along the beach before breakfast was lovely; Goa is lovely, monsoon or not, even in Colva.

Here’s some photos:

Amy, Jane and Emilia on our pre-breakfast beach walk
Amy, Jane and Emilia on our pre-breakfast beach walk

Emilia enjoying the beach
Emilia enjoying the beach

Colva Beach, Goa
Colva Beach, Goa

Fish Eagle - at least I think it is
Fish Eagle – at least I think it is

Guys pushing the fishing boat across the beach. Hard work
Guys pushing the fishing boat across the beach. Hard work!

One of the local fishing boats
One of Colva’s fishing boats

└ Tags: beach, colva, food, goa
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Aug22

Our Train To Goa

by Kev on August 22nd, 2011 at 5:55 am
Posted In: travel
train to Goa

On the train to Goa

Leaving Hospet and Hampi quite early in the morning on the train we’d come here on from Hyderabad, we continued on to our train’s final destination, Goa, although we got off one stop early at Madgaon, or Margao as the town’s also known as – this double name thing doesn’t half make travel confusing at points.

Finding our carriage was easy, we’re really use to it now as this was our 7th train on this trip.

Amy on train
Amy just loves the trains

Jane
Jane’s no stranger to that seat on that bench

Kev and Amy
Kev demonstrates that he own’s more than one t-shirt

We were travelling what’s called two-tier air-con class, or 2A or 2AC as it’s also referred to. If you’re a family of four this is a good class to travel as you’ve got a compartment to yourself if you need to get some sleep, or get changed or just want to have some privacy as we did when Amy needed to do her insulin injections.
As you can see from the first photo below two-tier has a curtain you can pull across to gain at least some privacy. The next class down, three-tier air-con has a curtain too on some trains but you’ll always be sharing with two strangers, something I’m happy to do during the day but not at night.

Emilia's normal position and activity on the train
Emilia’s normal position and activity on the train

Amy's favourite position on the train, up on the bunk with her DS
Amy’s favourite position on the train, up on the bunk with her DS

At points it looked like Goa was just going to be awash with rain as the clouds just got worse and worse.

Clouds on the way to Goa

Clouds on the way to Goa

Clouds on the way to Goa

└ Tags: goa, hospet, trains
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